Materialised Ideals: Sizes and Beauty
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.3384/cu.2000.1525.11319Keywords:
Clothing sizes, beauty norms, labelling, finished goods, obesity, clothes shopping, clothing normsAbstract
Today’s clothing industry is based on a system where clothes are made in ready-to-wear sizes and meant to fit most people. Studies have pointed out that consumers are discontent with the use of these systems: size designations are not accurate enough to find clothing that fits, and different sizes are poorly available. This article discusses in depth who these consumers are, and which consumer groups are the most dissatisfied with today’s sizing systems. Results are based on a web survey where 2834 Nordic consumers responded, complemented with eight in-depth interviews, market analysis on clothing sizes and instore trouser size measurements. Results indicate that higher shares of the consumers who have a body out of touch with the existing beauty ideals express discontentment with the sizing systems and the poor selection available. In particular, large women, very large men, and thin, short men are those who experience less priority in clothing stores and have more difficulties in finding clothes that fit. Consumers tend to blame themselves when the clothes do not fit their bodies, while our study points out that the industry is to blame as they do not produce clothing for all customers.
References
Aldrich, Winifred (2007): ‘History of Sizing Systems and Ready-to-wear Garments’, Susan P. Ashdown (ed.), Sizing in Clothing: Developing Effective Sizing Systems for Ready-to-wear Clothing, Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing Limited, 1-56.
Alexander, Marina, Lenda Jo Connell & Ann Beth Presley (2005): ‘Clothing Fit Preferences of Young Female Adult Consumers’, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 17:1, 52-64. [Read this article]
Ashdown, Susan P. (1998): ‘An Investigation of the Structure of Sizing Systems’, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 10: 5, 324-341. [Read this article]
Ashdown, Susan P. & Lucy Dunne (2006): ‘A Study of Automated Custom Fit: Readiness of the Technology for the Apparel Industry’, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 24: 2, 121-136. [Read this article]
Bodymetrics (2005): ‘UK National Sizing Survey (SizeUK): Information Document’, London.
Bordo, Susan (2003): Unbearable Weight: Feminism, Western Culture, and the Body, Berkeley, California: University of California Press.
Borregaard, Karen (2004): ‘Hvis jeg ikke kan passe en størrelse 42, er jeg blevet for tyk’, Copenhagen: Sociologisk Institut, Københavns Universitet.
Bye, Elizabeth, Karen L. Labat & Marilyn R. Delong (2006): ‘Analysis of Body Measurement Systems for Apparel’, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 24: 2, 66-79. [Read this article]
Chernin, Kim (1981): The Obsession: Reflections on the Tyranny of Slenderness, New York: Harper & Row.
Chowdhary, U. & N. V. Beale (1988): ‘Plus-Size Women’s Clothing Interest, Satisfactions and Dissatisfactions with Ready-to-Wear Apparel’, Perceptual and Motor Skills, 66:3, 783-788.
Chun-Yoon, Jongsuk & Cynthia R. Jasper (1993): ‘Garment-sizing Systems: An International Comparison’, International Journal of Clothing Science and Technology, 5:5, 28 - 37. [Read this article]
Chun-Yoon, Jongsuk & Cynthia R. Jasper (1994): ‘Development of size labelling systems for women’s garments’, International Journal of Consumer Studies, 18:1, 71-83.
Colls, Rachel (2004): ‘“Looking Alright, Feeling Alright”: Emotions, Sizing and the Geographies of Women’s Experiences of Clothing Consumption’, Social & Cultural Geography, 5:4, 583-596. [Read this article]
Colls, Rachel (2006): ‘Outsize/outside: Bodily Bignesses and the Emotional Experiences of British Women Shopping for Clothes’, Gender Place and Culture, 13:5, 529-545. [Read this article]
Connell, Lenda Jo, Pamela V. Ulrich, Evelyn L. Brannon, Marina Alexander & Ann Beth Presley (2006): ‘Body Shape Assessment Scale: Instrument Development For Analyzing Female Figures’, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 24:2, 80-95. [Read this article]
Cooklin, Gerry (1990): Pattern Grading for Women’s Clothes, the Technology of Sizing, London: BSP professional Books.
Cortese, Anthony (2008): Provocateur: Images of Women and Minorities in Advertising, Lanham: Rowman & Littlefield.
Dworkin, Shari L. & Faye Linda Wachs (2009): Body Panic: Gender, Health, and the Selling of Fitness, New York: New York University Press.
EN 13402-1 (2001): ‘Size designation of clothes - Part 1: Terms, definitions and body measurement procedure (ISO 3635:1981 modified) ’, in European Committee for Standardization (ed.).
Ennis, Holly (2006): ‘Vanity sizing: The Manufacturing of Self Esteem’, Dialogues@RU: Journal of Undergraduate Research, 5, 26-37.
Entwistle, Joanne (2000): The Fashioned Body: Fashion, Dress, and Modern Social Theory, Cambridge: Wiley-Blackwell.
Faust, Marie-Eve, Serge Carrier & Pierre Baptist (2006): ‘Variations in Canadian women’s ready-to-wear standard sizes’, Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management, 10:1, 71-83. [Read this article]
Fraser, Mariam & Monica Greco (eds) (2005): The Body: A Reader, London: Routledge.
Freedman, Rita Jackway (1984): ‘Reflections on Beauty as it Relates to Health in Adolescent Females’, Sharon Golub (ed.), Health care of the female adolescent, New York: The Haworth Press, 29-46.
Garner, D. M., Garfinkel, P. E., Schwartz, D., & Thompson, M. (1980): ‘Cultural Expectations of Thinness in Women’, Psychological Reports, 47, 483-491.
Groesz, Lisa M., Michael P. Levine & Sarah K. Murnen (2002): ‘The Effect of Experimental Presentation of Thin Media Images on Body Satisfaction: A Meta-Analytic Review’, International Journal of Eating Disorders, 31:1, 1-16. [Read this article] PMid:11835293
Grogan, Sarah (2008): Body Image: Understanding Body Dissatisfaction in Men, Women, and Children, London: Routledge.
Guendouzi, Jackie (2004): ‘“She’s Very Slim”: Talking About Body-Size in all-Female Interactions’, Journal of Pragmatics, 36:9, 1635-1653. [Read this article]
Hauge, Benedicte (2007): ‘Kroppserfaringer og slankevaner : en kvalitativ studie av kvinner som slanker seg’, Fagrapport nr. 5-2007, Oslo: National Institute for Consumer Research.
Hesse-Biber, Sharlene Nagy (1996): Am I Thin Enough Yet? The Cult of Thinness and the Commercialization of Identity, Oxford: Oxford University Press.
Hollander, Anne (1993): Seeing Through Clothes, Berkeley & Los Angeles: University of California Press.
Howson, Alexandra (2004): The Body in Society: An Introduction, Cambridge: Polity Press.
ISO 3635 (1977): ‘Size Designation of Clothes - Definitions and Body Measurement Procedure’, International Organization for Standardization (ed.).
Jackson, Linda A. & Kelly S. Ervin (1992): ‘Height Stereotypes of Women and Men: The Liabilities of Shortness for Both Sexes’, The Journal of Social Psychology, 132: 4, 433-445. [Read this article]
Jensen, Arne (2007): ‘Feilslutninger om fedmeproblemet’, Samfunnsspeilet, 4, 52-61.
Kidwell, Claudia B. (1979): Cutting a fashionable fit: Dressmakers’ drafting systems in the United States, Washington D.C: Smithsonian Institution Press.
Kinley, Tammy R. (2003): ‘Size Variation in Women’s Pants’, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 21:1, 19-31. [Read this article]
Klepp, Ingun Grimstad (2008): ‘Clothes, the body and well-being: What does it mean to feel well dressed? ’ Project note, Oslo: National Institute for Consumer Research.
Klepp, Ingun Grimstad (2010): ‘Slankende linjer’, Mari Rysst (ed.), Aesthetic Ideals and Big Bodies: a comparative study of Russia and Norway - Collection of Papers presented at Moscow, 17-18 September 2009, Oslo: SIFO.
Klepp, Ingun Grimstad & Mari Bjerck (2010): ‘Klær og utstyr for en hver anledning – Friluftslivets spesialisering’, Forskning i friluft 2009, Oslo: Friluftslivets fellesorganisasjon, 89-102.
Klepp, Ingun Grimstad & Ardis Storm-Mathisen (2005): ‘Reading Fashion as Age: Teenage Girls and Grown Womens Accounts of Clothing as Body and Social Status’, Fashion Theory: The Journal of Dress, Body and Culture, 9:3, 323-342. [Read this article] PMCid:2241188
LaBat, Karen L. (2007): ‘Sizing Standardisation’, S. P. Ashdown (ed.), Sizing in Clothing: Developing Effective Sizing Systems for Ready-to-Wear Clothing, Cambridge: Woodhead Publishing Limited, 88-107.
LaBat, Karen L. & Marilyn R. DeLong (1990): ‘Body Cathexis and Satisfaction with Fit of Apparel’, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 8:2. 43-48.
Laitala, Kirsi, Benedicte Hauge & Ingun Grimstad Klepp (2009): ‘Large? Clothing Size and Size Labeling’, TemaNord 2009:503, Copenhagen: Nordic Council of Ministers.
Lennon, Sharron J. (1997): ‘Physical Attractiveness, Age and Body Type: Further Evidence’, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 15:1, 60-64.
McCaulay, Marci, Laurie Mintz & Audrey A. Glenn (1988): ‘Body Image, Self-esteem, and Depression-proneness: Closing the Gender Gap’, Sex Roles, 18:7, 381-391. [Read this article]
Meunier, Pierre (2000): ‘Use of Body Shape Information in Clothing Size Selection’, Human Factors and Ergonomics Society Annual Meeting Proceedings, 44, 715-718.
Mishkind, Marc E., Judith Rodin, Lisa R. Silberstein & Ruth H. Striegel-Moore (1986): ‘The Embodiment of Masculinity - Cultural, Psychological, and Behavioral Dimensions’, American Behavioral Scientist, 29:5, 545-562. [Read this article]
Mort, Frank (1988): ‘Boy’s own? Masculinity, Style and Popular Culture’, R. Chapman & J. Rutherford (eds), Male Order: Unwrapping Masculinity, London: Lawrence and Wishart.
Nettle, Daniel (2002): ‘Women’s Height, Reproductive Success and the Evolution of Sexual Dimorphism in Mmodern Humans’, Proceedings of the Royal Society of London Series B-Biological Sciences, 269, 1503: 1919-1923. [Read this article] PMid:12350254 PMCid:1691114
Nettleton, Sarah & Jonathan Watson (eds) (1998): The Body in Everyday Life, London: Routledge.
Nordic Council of Ministers (ed.) (2007): The Nordic Countries in Figures 2007 Copenhagen: Nordic Council of Ministers.
O’Brien, Ruth & W.C. Sheldon (1941): ‘Women’s Measurements for Garment and Pattern Constructions’, Washington DC: US Department of Agriculture.
Peura-Kapanen, Liisa (2000): ‘Kuluttaja vaate- ja jalkinemarkkinoilla - Löytyykö sopivankokoinen? ’ Julkaisuja Kuluttajatutkimuskeskus.
prEN 13402-4 (2007): ‘prEN 13402-4 Size designation of clothes - Part 4: Coding system’, in European Committee for Standardization (ed.).
Rhode, Deborah L. (2010): The Beauty Bias: The Injustice of Appearance in Life and Law, New York: Oxford University Press USA.
Richards, Mary Lynne (1981): ‘The Clothing Preferences and Problems of Elderly Female Consumers’, The Gerontologist, 21:3, 263-267. PMid:7239253
Rudd, Nancy A. & Sharron L Lennon (2000): ‘Body Image and Appearance-Managment Behaviors in College Woman’, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 18: 3, 152-162. [Read this article]
Rysst, Mari (2010): ‘Looking Good and Big Bodies: How Norwegians Conceptualize Body Ideals, the Big Body and Suitable clothes’, Mari Rysst (ed.), Aesthetic Ideals and Big Bodies: a comparative study of Russia and Norway - Collection of Papers presented at Moscow, 17-18 September 2009 Oslo: SIFO, 13-30.
Rysst, Mari (2008): ‘“I want to be me - I want to be kul”: An Anthropological Study of Norwegian Preteen Girls in the Light of a Presumed “Disappearance” of Childhood’, The Department of Social Anthropology, Oslo: University of Oslo.
Salusso, Carol J., John J. Borkowski, Naomi Reich & Ellen Goldsberry (2006): ‘An Alternative Approach to Sizing Apparel for Women 55 and Older’, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 24: 2, 96-111. [Read this article]
Schofield, Nancy A. & Karen L. LaBat (2005): ‘Exploring the Relationships of Grading, Sizing, and Anthropometric Data’, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 23:1, 13-27. [Read this article]
Shilling, Chris (2004): The Body and Social Theory, London: Sage Publications.
Shin, Su-Jeong Hwang & Cynthia L. Istook (2007): ‘The Importance of Understanding the Shape of Diverse Ethnic Female Consumers for Developing Jeans Sizing Systems’, International Journal of Consumer Studies, 31:2, 135-143. [Read this article]
Sieben, Wanda A. & Hsiu- I. Jessie Chen-Yu (1992): ‘The Accuracy of Size Information on Men’s Prewashed Jeans’, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 11:1, 74-82. [Read this article]
Silverstein, Brett, Barbara Peterson & Lauren Perdue (1986): ‘Some Correlates of the Thin Standard of Bodily Attractiveness for Women’, International Journal of Eating Disorders, 5, 895-905. [Read this article]
Stylios, George K. (2004): ‘New Measurement Technologies for Textiles and Clothing’, 2nd International Textile Clothing and Design Conference, Dubrovnik, Croatia, 135-149.
Thesander, Marianne (1997): The Feminine Ideal, London: Reaktion Books.
Thorén, Marianne (1996): ‘Systems Approach to Clothing for Disabled Users: Why is it Difficult for Disabled Users to Find Suitable Clothing’, Applied Ergonomics, 27:6, 389-396.
Tiggemann, Marika (2004): ‘Body Image Across the Adult Life Span: Stability and Change’, Body Image, 1:1, 29-41. [Read this article]
Treleaven, Philip (2007): ‘How to fit into your clothes: Busts, waists, hips and the UK National Sizing Survey’, Significance, 4:3, 113-117. [Read this article]
Turner, Bryan S (2004): The Body & Society: Explorations in Social Theory, London: Sage Publications.
Ujevic, Darko, Lajos Szirovicza & Isak Karabegovic (2005): ‘Anthropometry and the Comparison of Garment Size Systems in Some European Countries’, Collegium antropologicum, 29:1, 71-78.
US Department of Commerce (1958): ‘Commercial standard CS 215-58: Body measurements for the Sizing of Women’s Patterns and Apparel’, National Bureau of Standards (ed.). Washington, DC: U.S. Government printing office.
WHO (2006): ‘Obesity and Overweight: Fact sheet no. 311’.
Wienke, Chris (1998): ‘Negotiating the Male Body’, The Journal of Men’s Studies, 6:3, 255-282.
Williamson, Samantha & Catherine Delin (2001): ‘Young Children’s Figural Selections: Accuracy of Reporting and Body Size Dissatisfaction’, International Journal of Eating Disorders, 29:1, 80-84. [Read this article]
Workman, Jane E. (1991): ‘Body Measurement Specifications for Fit Models as a Factor in Clothing Size Variation’, Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, 10:1, 31-36. [Read this article]
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2011 Laitala, Grimstad Klepp, Hauge
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 3.0 Unported License.
Copyright for all manuscripts rests with the author(s). The editors reserve the right to edit manuscripts. Contributors are responsible for acquiring all permissions from the copyright owners for the use of quotations, illustrations, tables, etc. Each author must, before final publication fill, in a publishing agreement provided by LiU E-Press.
Since 2021 Culture Unbound uses a Creative Commons: Attribution license for new articles, which allows users to distribute the work and to reform or build upon it without the author's permission. Full reference to the author must be given. For older articles please see each article landing page.