(Un-)veiling the west: Burkini-gate, Princess Hijab and dressing as struggle for postsecular integration
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.3384/cu.2000.1525.1683263Keywords:
Veils, Un/veiling, France, Secularity, Burkini-gate, Princess Hijab, Integration, FreedomAbstract
The ban of the burkini in the summer of 2016 in France is the latest stage in a long political history, where the French depreciation or fear of the veil, and of Islam, has come to play a more significant role since the end of the cold war. Unveiling female bodies at the beach in Nice expose conditioned values of the French republic. In this context, drawing black veils on public advertisements becomes a performative act commenting on consumerism, religion, secularity, and the imagined Muslim woman. In this article we discuss freedom and integration in “third spaces” via an analysis of “hijabisation” in street art and the official reactions against certain types of beachwear. In line with Talal Asad (2006) we want to raise the issue on how the secular state addresses the pain of people who are obliged to give up part of their religious identity to become acceptable. Race-thinking was once an explicit part of celebrated values like modernity, secularity, democracy and human rights. However, the fact that the idea of races has been erased from articulations of Western nations and international bodies does not mean that traces of race-thinking in the heritage from the enlightenment are gone. By following Princess Hijab and the “Burkini-gate” a nationalist fantasy intertwined with the idea of the secular state reveals itself and acts of un/dressing emerge as signs of integration revealing a challenged imperialist paradigm.
References
Al Jazeera, “Princess Hijab’s ‘veiling art’” (reportage) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h0GLv-HzJFc
Ahmed, Leila (1992): Women and gender in Islam: Historical roots of a modern debate, Yale University Press: London.
Ahmed, Sara (2000): “Who Knows? Knowing Strangers and Strangerness”, Australian Feminist Studies, 15(31). DOI: 10.1080/713611918
Amer, Sahar (2014): What is veiling?, The University of North Carolina Press: Chapel Hill. DOI: 10.5149/northcarolina/9781469617756.001.0001
Anderson, Benedict (1991): Imagined communities: reflections on the origin and spread of nationalism, Verso: London.
Anzaldúa, Gloria (2012): Borderlands: the new mestiza = la frontera, Aunt Lute Books: San Francisco.
Asad, Talal (2003): Formations of the secular: Christianity, Islam, modernity, Stanford University Press: Stanford, California.
Asad, Talal (2006): “French Secularism and the ‘Islamic Veil Affair’”, Hedgehog Review, Spring/Summer 8 (Issue 1/2).
Asad, Talal, Brown, Wendy, Butler, Judith, & Mahmood, Saba (2013): Is critique secular? Blasphemy, injury, and free speech.
Atluri, Tara (2017): “Like PLO I Don’t Surrender. Geneologies of Orientalist Feminine Evil and the Terror of the Artistic”, L. Fallwell & K. V. Williams (eds.), Gender and the Representation of Evil. Routledge: London & New York.
Azar, Michael (2001): Frihet, jämlikhet, brodermord: revolution och kolonialism hos Albert Camus och Frantz Fanon, Brutus Östlings bokförlag Symposion: Stockholm/Stehag.
Berg, Linda, & Carbin, Maria (2013). “Med slöjan som plattform”. Bang, 4.
Berg, Linda, Lundahl, Mikela, & Martinsson, Lena (2016): “Sekulariteter – förstahet genom religion och kön”, Kvinder, Køn & Forskning, 4.
Bhabha, Homi K. (1994): The Location of Culture, Routledge: London & New York.
Bhabha, Homi K. (1994 [1987]): “Of mimicry and man: The ambivalence of colonial discourse”, Homi K. Bhabha (ed.): The Location of Culture. Routledge: London; New York.
Bhabha, Homi K. (1996): “Culture’s In-Between”, Stuart Hall & Paul Du Gay (eds.): Questions of cultural identity. Sage: London.
Bird, Katie (Producer). (2009). L’Oréal found guilty of racist recruitment. Cosmetics, June 25 2009: http://www.cosmeticsdesign-europe.com/Market-Trends/L-Oreal-found-guilty-of-racist-recruitment
Bowen, John Richard (2007): Why the French don’t like headscarves: Islam, the state, and public space, Princeton University Press: Princeton. DOI: 10.1515/9781400837564
Breeden, Aurelien, & Blaise, Lilia (2016): “Cannes, Citing Security Risks, Bans Full-Body ‘Burkinis’ From Its Beaches”. New York Times, 12 August 2016: http://www.nytimes.com/2016/08/13/world/europe/cannes-muslims-burkini-ban.html?smid=tw-nytimes&smtyp=cur&_r=0&referer
Brown, Wendy (2005): Edgework: critical essays on knowledge and politics, Princeton University Press: Princeton, N.J.
Brubaker, Rogers (1992): Citizenship and nationhood in France and Germany, Harvard University Press: Cambridge, Mass.
Bunting, Madeleine (2011): “Nigella Lawson and the great burkini cover-up”. The Guardian, 23 April 2011: https://www.theguardian.com/lifeandstyle/2011/apr/23/nigella-lawson-burkini-bikini-swimming
Butler, Judith (2015): Notes toward a performative theory of assembly, Harvard University Press: Cambridge, Mass. DOI: 10.4159/9780674495548
Cabein.(2009). Who I Am And What I Want Outkast – SpottieOttieDopaliscious PRINCESS HIJAB Cabein.
Cady, Linell Elizabeth, & Hurd, Elizabeth Shakman (2010): Comparative secularisms in a global age, Palgrave Macmillan: Basingstoke. DOI: 10.1057/9780230106703
Calhoun, Craig J., Juergensmeyer, Mark, & VanAntwerpen, Jonathan (2011): Rethinking secularism, Oxford University Press: New York.
Camiscioli, Elisa (2009): Reproducing the French race: Immigration, intimacy, and embodiment in the early twentieth century: Durham.
Casanova, José (1994): Public religions in the modern world, University of Chicago Press: Chicago.
Casanova, José (2007): “Immigration and the New Religious Pluralism: A European Union/United States Comparison”, T. F. Banchoff (ed.), Democracy and the new religious pluralism. Oxford University Press: New York. DOI: 10.1093/acprof:oso/9780195307221.003.0005
Chrisafis, Angelique (2010): “Cornered – Princess Hijab, Paris’s elusive graffiti artist”. The Guardian, November 11 2010: https://www.theguardian.com/artanddesign/2010/nov/11/princess-hijab-paris-graffiti-artist
Cixous, Hélène, Derrida, Jacques, & Bennington, Geoffrey (2001): Veils, Stanford University Press: Stanford, Calif.
Connell, Raewyn (1987): Gender and power: Society, the person and sexual politics, Polity in association with Blackwell: Cambridge.
Daley, Suzanne, & Rubin, Alissa J. (2015): “French Muslims Say Veil Bans Give Cover to Bias”. New York Times, 26 May 2015: http://www.nytimes.com/2015/05/27/world/europe/muslim-frenchwomen-struggle-with-discrimination-as-bans-on-veils-expand.html?_r=0
Deltombe, Thomas (2005): L’Islam imaginaire: La construction médiatique de l’islamophobie en France, 1975-2005, La Découverte: Paris.
Dickey, Christopher (2016): “Bikinis? Burqinis? In Cannes They Test Your Swimsuit for ‘Secularism’”. The Daily Beast, 15 August 2016: http://www.thedailybeast.com/articles/2016/08/15/france-s-burqini-bans-use-same-reasoning-as-fundamental-islam.html
Dumas, Daisy (2016): “Non-Muslims flock to buy burkinis as French bans raise profile of the modest swimwear style”. The Sydney Morning Herald, 20 August 2016: http://www.smh.com.au/lifestyle/news-and-views/news-features/nonmuslimsflock-to-buy-burkinis-as-french-bans-raise-profile-of-the-modest-swimwear-style 20160819-gqwx95.html
Esseghaier, Mariam (2013): “Graffiti as Fearful Commodity: Princess Hijab, the Muslim Woman, and Anti-Consumerism ”, Rhizomes. Cultural Studies in Emerging Knowledge (25).
Eze, Emmanuel Chukwudi (1997): Race and the Enlightenment: A reader, Blackwell: Malden, Massachusetts.
Fabian, Johannes (2002): Time and the other: How anthropology makes its object, Columbia University Press: New York.
Fanon, Frantz (1952): Peau noire, masques blancs, Éditions du Seuil: Paris.
Fanon, Frantz (1967): A dying colonialism, Grove Press: New York.
Fernando, Mayanthi L. (2010): “Reconfiguring freedom: Muslim piety and the limits of secular law and public discourse in France”, American Ethnologist, 37(1). DOI: 10.1111/j.1548-1425.2010.01239.x
Fernando, Mayanthi L. (2014): The republic unsettled: Muslim French and the contradictions of secularism, Duke University Press: Durham. DOI: 10.1215/9780822376286
Foucault, Michel (1966): Les mots et les choses: une archéologie des sciences humaines, Gallimard: Paris.
Fournier, Pascale (2013): “Headscarf and burqa controversies at the crossroad of politics, society and law”, Social Identities, 19(6). DOI: 10.1080/13504630.2013.842669
Fraser, Giles (2015): “France’s much vaunted secularism is not the neutral space it claims to be”. The Guardian, 16 January 2015: http://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/belief/2015/jan/16/france-much-vaunted-secularism-not-neutral-spaceclaims-to-be
Gordon, Bennet.(2009): “Princess Hijab’s Veiled Messages”, UTNE blogs: Mind and Body. http://www.utne.com/mind-and-body/princess-hijabs-veiled-messages
Greiner, Clemens, & Sakdapolrak, Patrick (2013): “Translocality: Concepts, Applications and Emerging Research Perspectives”, Geography Compass, 7(5). DOI: 10.1111/gec3.12048
Hanhardt, Christina B. (2013): Safe space: gay neighborhood history and the politics of violence, Duke University Press: Durham. DOI: 10.1215/9780822378860
Hirdman, Anja (2001): Tilltalande bilder: genus, sexualitet och publiksyn i Veckorevyn och Fib aktuellt, Atlas: Stockholm.
Hou, Jeffrey (2010): “(Not) your everyday public space”, J. Hou (ed.), Insurgent public space: guerrilla urbanism and the remaking of the contemporary cities. Routledge: New York.
Humphrey, Claire (2012): “Parisienne femininity and the politics of embodiment”, French Cultural Studies, 23(3). DOI: 10.1177/0957155812443183
Islam, Merve Kavakçi (2010): Headscarf politics in Turkey : a postcolonial reading, Palgrave Macmillan: New York. DOI: 10.1057/9780230113947
Keaton, Trica Danielle (2006): Muslim girls and the other France: Race, identity politics, and social exclusion, Indiana University Press: Bloomington.
Khan, Sheeba (2016): “Burkini sales have skyrocketed after French ban, says original designer”. The Independent, 23 August 2016: http://www.independent.co.uk/news/world/europe/burkini-sales-skyrocket-french-ban-original-designer-aheda-zanetti-a7205226.html
Klein, Naomi (2000): No logo: No space, no choice, no jobs, taking aim at the brand bullies, Flamingo: London.
Latour, Bruno (1993): We have never been modern, Harvard University Press: Cambridge, Massachussetts.
“Le maire de Cannes interdit le port du burkini sur les plages” (2016). Nice Matin, 11 August 2016: http://www.nicematin.com/faits-de-societe/le-maire-de-cannesinterdit-le-port-du-burkini-sur-les-plages-70612
Lundahl, Mikela (2005): Vad är en neger? Negritude, essentialism, strategi, Glänta: Göteborg.
Mahmood, Saba (2001): “Feminist Theory, Embodiment, and the Docile Agent: Some Reflections on the Egyptian Islamic Revival”, Cultural Anthropology, 16(2), 202- 236. DOI: 10.1525/can.2001.16.2.202
Mahmood, Saba (2005): Politics of piety: The Islamic revival and the feminist subject, Princeton University Press: Princeton.
McAuliffe, Cameron (2012): “Graffiti or street art? Negotiating the moral geographies of the creative city”, Journal of Urban Affairs, 34(2). DOI: 10.1111/j.1467-9906.2012.00610.x
McAuliffe, Cameron, & Iveson, Kurt (2011): “Art and Crime (and Other Things Besides … ): Conceptualising Graffiti in the City”, Geography Compass, 5(3). DOI: 10.1111/j.1749-8198.2011.00414.x
Mignolo, Walter D.(2011). Geopolitics of sensing and knowing: on (de)coloniality, border thinking and epistemic disobedience (Vol. 14): Routledge.
Moruzzi, Norma Claire (1993): “Veiled Agents: Feminine Agency and Masquerade in The Battle of Algiers”, K. Davis & S. Fisher (eds.), Negotiating at the margins: the gendered discourse of power and resistance. Rutgers University Press: New Brunswick, New Jersey.
Najmabadi, Afsaneh (2006): “Gender and Secularism of Modernity: How Can a Muslim Woman Be French?”, Feminist Studies, 32(2). DOI: 10.2307/20459085
Payne, Jenny Gunnarsson.(2009). “A Badass Veiled Girl”: E-mail Interview with Guerrilla Artist Princess Hijab grassroots feminism: http://www.grassrootsfeminism.net/cms/node/255
Pearlman, Jonathan (2016): “Burkini designer says French bans have boosted sales – to non-Muslims”. The Telegraph, 23 August 2016: http://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/2016/08/23/burkini-designer-says-french-bans-have-boosted-sales---to-nonmu/
Rémond, René (1999): Religion and society in modern Europe, Blackwell Publishers: Oxford.
Scott, Joan Wallach (2007): The politics of the veil, Princeton University Press: Princeton, N.J.
Selby, Jennifer A. (2012): Questioning French secularism: gender politics and Islam in a Parisian suburb, Palgrave Macmillan: Basingstoke. DOI: 10.1007/978-1-137-01132-9
Senghor, Léopold Sédar (1963): “Negritude and African Socialism”, K. Kirkwood (ed.), St Antony’s Papers (Vol. 15): London.
Silverstein, Paul A. (2004): Algeria in France: Transpolitics, race, and nation, Indian University Press: Bloomington, Indiana.
Spivak, Gayatri Chakravorty (1988): “Can the subaltern speak?”, C. Nelson & L. Grossberg (eds.), Marxism and the interpretation of culture: Communications and culture. Macmillan Education: Houndmills. DOI: 10.1007/978-1-349-19059-1_20
Trinh, T. Minh-ha (1989): Woman, native, other: Writing postcoloniality and feminism, Indiana University Press: Bloomington.
West, Cornel (1989): The American evasion of philosophy: A genealogy of pragmatism, University of Wisconsin Press: Madison, Wisconsin. DOI: 10.1007/978-1-349-20415-1
Wooster Collective (2009): “Putting on the Veil. The Wooster Collective talks to Princess Hijab about hiding the faces of ubiquitous advertising”. GOOD WorldwideInc., November 26 2009 https://www.good.is/articles/putting-on-the-veil
Young, Robert J C (2001): Postcolonialism: An Historical Introduction, Blackwell: Oxford.
Zanetti, Aheda (2016): “I created the burkini to give women freedom, not to take it away”. The Guardian, 24 August 2016: https://www.theguardian.com/commentisfree/2016/aug/24/i-created-the-burkini-to-give-women-freedom-not-to-take-itaway
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
Copyright for all manuscripts rests with the author(s). The editors reserve the right to edit manuscripts. Contributors are responsible for acquiring all permissions from the copyright owners for the use of quotations, illustrations, tables, etc. Each author must, before final publication fill, in a publishing agreement provided by LiU E-Press.
Since 2021 Culture Unbound uses a Creative Commons: Attribution license for new articles, which allows users to distribute the work and to reform or build upon it without the author's permission. Full reference to the author must be given. For older articles please see each article landing page.